P.S. Buy your bus ticket at the ticket office, on the station's official website bas.rs or at the ticket machine: then platform access is included in the price, with no line. And get to the station an hour early.

After that, though, I got lucky. The bus was brand new: it smelled of new seats, the interior was spotless, and on a huge 50-seat bus there were only five of us. The whole ride was perfectly comfortable: the air conditioning worked and, best of all, there was no Serbian music playing.

3. Podgorica

It was about 3:45 when I woke up to the harsh glare of streetlights. I looked out the window, looked at the clock. Thought: "Huh, this city looks a lot like Podgorica." I'd lived there for almost a year. But it's only 3:45, and we're supposed to arrive at six. Can't be.

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